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THIS IS NOT THE FULL BROCHURE

We invite you to call Sarah or Gwen at 1-800-762-4216 to request the full brochure. The brochure will include Important Traveler Information (and answers to most questions) and a Reservation Form. We can send the brochure through the Postal Service or as a PDF attachment. If you would like to receive a PDF, probably the best way to keep the message from going into a SPAM filter is to send a message to sarah@serioustraveler.com. If you are already on our mailing list, no need to complete the entire brochure request form.

June 28 - July 8, 2008 • 11 Days

$4920 per person double occupancy
from New York, JFK via Delta

Single Supplement
$680

Rousse • Varna • Nessebar • Kazanluk
Plovdiv • Sofia • Veliko Turnovo • Arbanassi

Day-by-Day Itinerary

This trip may be taken independently with air included from New York or your home city, or as an extension to the Legends and Traditions of Romania tour, June 17 - 29. Click here for more details.

June 28 Depart U.S.A.
Saturday
Meet your travel companions at New York JFK airport for the nonstop flight aboard Delta Airlines to Bucharest, Romania.
(Inflight meals)

June 29 ROUSSE
Sunday
Arrive in Bucharest around 10:00 AM. Welcome to Romania! Join those extending the Romanian tour. Our Bulgarian team (English-speaking tour guide and coach driver) will greet us at the Bucharest airport and escort us through arrival and luggage formalities. From the airport we head south to the Romania-Bulgaria border by air-conditioned coach. We cross the border via the Danube Friendship Bridge, over the moving waters of this majestic and legendary European river. To save time, our guide has prepared a picnic snack to enjoy on the road.

Welcome to Bulgaria. We arrive in Rousse – the most beautiful Bulgarian city on the Danube River. Check in to our hotel: the Anna Palace. Once the mansion of a rich Bulgarian merchant, this building was chosen as the site of consular offices for the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Italy and Romania because of its majestic architecture in eclectic neoclassic style. It has undergone a complete restoration and conversion, begun in 2001. Since 2003 Anna Palace has been one of the best boutique hotels of Rousse. Each one of its 25 rooms is completely different from the other, although all of them share the 19th century Viennese style and elegance combined with modern amenities.

Those willing to sacrifice an afternoon rest following the long flight will have the opportunity to leisurely explore Rousse, often compared with Prague or Vienna. Have a strong Italian espresso or just mingle with Rousse’s people, enjoying a languid afternoon stroll on this pedestrian street bordered with parks, marble piazzas and sparkling fountains.

Flourishing – thanks to its trade with the West – Rousse was the place to be, if you lived in 19th century Bulgaria. The city attracted rich merchants and intellectuals with its art, commerce and banking. The son of such a family, Elias Canetti, was awarded the Nobel prize in literature in 1981.

You are invited to enjoy welcome drinks and a light buffet dinner accompanied by live music at the Canetti house, a short block from the hotel. This building was abandoned during the communist regime, but is undergoing complete restoration. Though work is yet to be finished, the atmosphere is full of charm, and the great architecture is a perfect background for our first event in Bulgaria. We also use this welcome hour to introduce you to the specifics of the tour and to get acquainted with the local traditions, including Bulgarian do’s and don’ts.

Snack-Buffet reception Anna Palace****

June 30 IVANOVO
Monday SVESHTARI
VARNA
In the morning, after breakfast at our hotel, we depart for the village of Ivanovo (a 30 minute drive) to visit the rock-cut monasteries of “St. Michael the Archangel”. Carved high in the rocks above Lom River gorge, this cluster of churches, chapels and monasteries shine with their beautifully painted frescos, dating from the 12th through 17th centuries. In a setting which once included 40 churches inhabited by more than 300 monks in its cave-like monastic cells, we visit the most accessible and best preserved painted church in the Ivanovo Monasteries, now part of the UNESCO Cultural Heritage list of monuments.

Next we’ll relax and enjoy the countryside on our 2-hour ride to another UNESCO Cultural Heritage site – the Thracian Tomb of Sveshtari (3rd century BC).

For lunch, enjoy a picnic prepared by the local people. Continue our journey (around 120 miles) to the pearl of the Bulgarian Black Sea - the city of Varna.

On the way to Varna is Madara – yet another religious center of past cultures. The most impressive monument of this complex is the Madara Rider. Carved high (300 feet from the base of the cliff) into a steep vertical rock, this colossal bas-relief, representing the figure of a knight triumphing over a lion, glorifies the victories of the 7th and 8th century Bulgarian Khans. UNESCO included the Madara Rider in its World Cultural Heritage list in 1972, because of its historical significance and its monumental quality. Today the bas-relief is in an endangered condition, and it is undergoing fortification work. We may be able to see it.

Continuing to Varna, we pass by many archaeological sites that are an inseparable part of the idyllic rural landscape. Our guide, Luba, will explain to us their historical significance.

Arriving in Varna on the Black Sea coast, we dine at a local restaurant.

We apply for an authorization to book the official governmental residence in Euxinograd, formerly the summer palace of the Bulgarian kings. The adjacent residence was used for VIP leaders and their guests during communist times. If in use, we settle for a modern hotel in one of the resorts surrounding the city.

B-L-D Euxinograd Residence
or resort hotel

July 1 VARNA - BALCHIK
Tuesday
Today we visit Varna Museum of Archaeology to admire the oldest hand crafted gold treasure in the world, created in the 5th Millennium B.C. Discovered in 1972 in the Varna Necropolis (royal burial site), this ancient jewelry once decorated a king who reigned roughly 2000 years before the first pharaohs of the Egyptian Old Kingdom and the building of the pyramids. If time permits, we explore the haunting ruins of the Roman Thermae (Public Baths) in downtown Varna.

For lunch, we enjoy freshly caught fish in a select seafood restaurant in Varna.

In the afternoon, after a short drive to Balchik, we visit the summer residence of the Romanian Queen Mary. Aiming to aesthetically blend her Christian beliefs with the Muslim faith of her lover, the Queen’s architects created a masterpiece of gardens, villas, chapels and fountains, unmatched anywhere in this part of Europe. Mixing Roman pools with Turkish minarets, Bulgarian Revival architecture with Greek classical columns, the entire park is a delight in forms of nature and serenity. With the world’s second largest cactus collection, together with hundreds of tree and plant specimens, the Queen’s residence is a paradise on earth for those who enjoy nature. We stroll among majestic pines, Lebanese cedars, and Mediterranean ivies, beyond which is the Black Sea. Tonight’s dinner is in the hunting lodge, a part of the Euxinograd Palace restaurant and open only for VIP guests.

B-L-D Euxinograd Residence
or resort hotel

July 2 NESSEBAR
Wednesday KAZANLUK
Today we travel along the Black Sea coast to the town of Nessebar, another jewel in the crown of ancient Thracian, Classic Greek, and Byzantine civilizations. Originally founded in the 2nd millennium B.C. as the Thracian city known as Menebria, Nessebar preserves the rich heritage of Hellenistic and early Christian monuments. In Medieval times it was the place where the Byzantine Emperors exiled their politically incorrect aristocracy. A few of the 6th to 14th century churches – which showcased the picturesque taste of this rejected nobility – still remain. Nessebar was declared a town-museum and included in the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage list. Nessebar’s artistry – past and present – attracts tourists from all over the world.

Stop for a family-style lunch consisting of fish and other local specialties. The Greek family who owns this restaurant is proud to trace its origins back to the 19th century.

After lunch, we continue to Kazanluk. Located in the geographic center of Bulgaria, the city is the capital of the Valley of the Roses and the Valley of Thracian Kings. We visit the Thracian Tomb of Kazanluk to admire the magnificent frescos from the 4th century B.C. This beautiful monument is also part of the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage list.

After this exciting day, we check in at Hotel Zornitza, located near the Thracian tomb. This simple hotel, built in communist times, offers reasonable comfort and great service.

A private choir concert in an Eastern Orthodox Church awaits us before dinner in a village restaurant 10 minutes drive from Kazanluk.

B-L-D Hotel Zornitza**

July 3 KAZANLUK
Thursday PLOVDIV
We spend the morning in the Kazanluk Valley. The local museum we visit is rich in Thracian gold artifacts. This exquisite collection, recently discovered, shows the mastery of Thracian goldsmith craftsmanship. We also visit the tombs of Seuthes III royal family, where Dr. Kitov – the “Indiana Jones” of Balkan archeology – made the phenomenal discovery.

On our way to Plovdiv, we stop at Shipka Birth of Christ Memorial Temple, built in the impressive 17th century Muscovite style. It is a magnificent example of Russian Orthodox Christian architecture with a decorative façade and golden onion-domes. The structure was dedicated to the Russian Imperial Army, which liberated Bulgaria from the Ottoman Empire in the 19th century.

Although we are too late to see the famous Rose Festival, we are in perfect time to enjoy the beauty and scent of the blooming lavender fields. We visit a lavender distillery and see how the essential oils are produced.

We stop for a lunch in the private house of a Bulgarian artist and enjoy his wife’s home cooking.

In the late afternoon we continue our journey to Plovdiv, the second largest city in Bulgaria, and enjoy the atmosphere of our centrally-located landmark hotel Trimontium.

We end our day quietly dining in a restaurant near the hotel.

B-L-D Hotel Trimontium****

July 4 PLOVDIV
Friday BACHKOVO MONASTERY
In the morning we visit Plovdiv’s Old Town. Situated on three hills, the city was known as Pulpudeva during Thracian times; Philipopolis, honoring the father of Alexander the Great; and Trimontium during the Roman period. It preserves many magnificent examples of Roman, Greek and Bulgarian architecture. Our walking tour includes the Roman Amphitheater, an icon exhibition, and the oldest and richest ethnographic museum in Bulgaria. Provision will be made for those who have difficulty walking. Antique and art galleries set amongst Bulgarian Revival houses with impressive painted façades also beckon us.

Continue 20 miles to the Bachkovo Monastery. The crown jewel of our culinary experience in Bulgaria is lunch at Efrosina House, a private home visited by invitation only to diplomats, nobility and distinguished guests. Today you are honored guests in the 250-year-old mansion, which was built by a wine merchant. The tradition continues as the owner Efrosina delights us with a feast of the finest Bulgarian food and wine. The hostess, author of several cookbooks, will be happy to share her recipes with us.

After lunch we are ready to stroll through Bachkovo Monastery. The buildings of the monastery represent a splendid mosaic of frescos and icons created during centuries of turbulent history. The American writer Elizabeth Kostova describes Bachkovo Monastery as a mysterious place, hiding the secrets of Count Dracula. It’s up to you to decide if the monastery is mystifying…or simply charming with its wonderful art.

Upon our return to Plovdiv, we pause for dinner in a local restaurant. After the lavish lunch at Efrosina’s house, we prefer a light repast.

We may have the opportunity to enjoy a concert in the Old Town of Plovdiv (optional). The cultural agenda of the city is very rich, so there is always a great choice of music.

B-L-D Hotel Trimontium****

July 5 PLOVDIV
Saturday RILA MONASTERY
SOFIA
We depart for Rila Monastery (4-hour drive) traversing a picturesque mountain road. It is almost the same route, Via Egnatia, that the Romans used to transport their armies from the West to conquer the East. During this scenic journey, we view the majestic Rila Mountain, the charming town of Samokov and the Struma River Valley.

After lunch near Rila Monastery, we visit this splendid Eastern Orthodox compound that has survived and flourished for more than eleven centuries. The monastic complex, considered one of the finest masterpieces of Bulgarian National Revival architecture, was declared a national historical monument in 1976 and became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983.

During the two-hour monastery tour, in the museum we observe the famous Rafael Cross. It was carved with a needle over a period of twelve years by a monk who lost his vision after finishing this masterpiece. Following the museum visit, we take pleasure in admiring the monastery church, covered with frescos in the finest example of 19th century ecclesiastical artistry. After a visit to the old kitchen with its enormous chimney, we see a monastic room. Those who are willing to climb steep staircases may ascend the clock tower where you will find the earliest wall paintings of musicians in Medieval Europe.

In the late afternoon, relax as we continue on the two-hour drive to Sofia, the capital of Bulgaria.

We check in to our boutique hotel, Crystal Palace in downtown Sofia, located near the National Library and Sofia University, “Climent Ohridski”. After freshening up a bit, we enjoy a light dinner in a local restaurant nearby.

B-L-D Hotel Crystal Palace****

July 6 SOFIA
Sunday
After breakfast at the hotel, we take a short walk (approximately 10 minutes) to St. Alexander Nevski Cathedral, to attend the Sunday service. A cross-domed basilica, built in Neo-Byzantine style, the cathedral is the largest Eastern Orthodox Church in Bulgaria. Both its exterior and interior architectural designs are impressive. At a height of more than 150 feet, gold-covered domes shimmer over the intricate complex of arches and windows, illuminating an interior lavishly decorated with Italian marbles in all possible colors, Brazilian onyx, alabaster and Venetian mosaics. Inside the cupola is the portrait of Father Savaot and the Prayer of God inscribed with gold letters.

Our leisurely walking tour continues (with the highlights of Sofia all in close proximity), to St. Sofia Church, a basilica built in the 6th century over the mausoleum of the early Christian martyrs (prior to that the necropolis). We see another example of Russian Orthodox architecture, St. Nicolas Church . From the Military Club, follow the yellow brick road, a boulevard covered with yellow cobblestones imported from Italy. It is lined with 19th century buildings in various styles. These magnificent examples of architecture now house embassies, palaces, museums and high-end boutiques. Our walking tour will culminate at the Archeological Museum of Bulgaria, which showcases splendid treasures from Thracian times, and artifacts dating back to 8th millennia B.C.

Lunch today is at a café in downtown Sofia.

In the afternoon, we drive to the outskirts of Sofia to see the collections of the National History Museum and the Boyana Church. The National Museum of History exhibits some of the best archeological and artistic artifacts found on the territory of Bulgaria. Several times its collections have traveled to be included in exhibitions at the Metropolitan Museum in New York, Le Louvre, L’Hermitage and other famous museums around the world.

The seventh wonder of Bulgaria that we visit on our tour is the Boyana Church. Built and painted between 11th and 14th centuries, this site is on the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage list. The frescoes dating from 1259 are considered an artistic precursor of the Italian Renaissance, which started two centuries later.

After admiring the serenity of the 13th century portraits of the Bulgarian aristocrats painted on the walls of the church, we continue our adventures in the outskirts of Sofia and partake of a dinner served in a small monastery. During the buffet-style supper we have the opportunity to spend time with authentic “grannies”, who have prepared selected delights of Bulgarian cuisine.

B-L-D Hotel Crystal Palace****

July 7 SOFIA
Monday VELIKO TURNOVO ARBANASSI
This morning we drive northeast to Veliko Turnovo. Enroute, learn about its history as the capital of the Second Bulgarian Empire (12th -14th centuries). It was graced with rich palaces of the Bulgarian Kings, bishops and nobility.

Upon arrival in Veliko Turnovo, we stop at the remains of Tsarvets. Those who wish, may climb to the top of the Royal Hill. The site from Baldwin of Flanders Tower is impressive. The others may have a coffee break. Then we have lunch and free time at the arts and crafts street Samovodska Charshiya.
Continuing to the architectural museum-town of Arbanassi, we view the 16th century frescos in the Church of the Holy Nativity. Next we see the Arbanassi fortress-houses, built in the 17th and 18th centuries. These fortified homes protected the wealthy Bulgarians from the vicious invasions of roaming bandits, who pillaged the towns and villages in the vicinity.

Our farewell dinner is at our hotel, the Arbanassi Palace – a 5-star hotel, formerly the Bulgarian president’s home. Enjoy a spectacular live show of Bulgarian folklore, music, and dances, privately arranged for us on the terrace of the hotel.

B-L-D Arbanassi Palace*****

July 8 ARBANASSI
Tuesday ROUSSE
BUCHAREST
NEW YORK
Rise early for our departure to Bucharest. Our Delta flight departs Bucharest at 1:55 PM and arrives JFK at 5:30 PM.

Welcome home!
B=breakfast, L=lunch, D=dinner
Note: Flight schedules always subject to change.

THIS IS NOT THE FULL BROCHURE

We invite you to call Sarah or Gwen at 1-800-762-4216 to request the full brochure. The brochure will include Important Traveler Information (and answers to most questions) and a Reservation Form. We can send the brochure through the Postal Service or as a PDF attachment. If you would like to receive a PDF, probably the best way to keep the message from going into a SPAM filter is to send a message to sarah@serioustraveler.com. If you are already on our mailing list, no need to complete the entire brochure request form.

The Thracian Civilization

By Rossitza Ohridska-Olson
Written exclusively for the patrons of Serious Traveler

During the last few years extraordinary archeological discoveries in Bulgaria attracted the attention of the world. Exquisite treasures, mystic burial sites and monumental temples have been brought to light. Gold weapons, created with technology unknown to the rest of the world, made international headlines. Precious jewelry pre-dating the Trojan War amazed scientists around the globe. Religious complexes, serving thousands of pilgrims, and built before the Athenian temples, caused the rethinking of history time lines. All these findings attracted the attention to the forgotten European civilization of the Thracians.

The Thracian civilization appeared roughly around the end of the 5th and the beginning of the 4th millennium BC. Thrace was a unifying name for the people living on the territory of modern day Bulgaria, Northern Greece, Western Turkey, Romania, Moldova, South Ukraine, the Former Republic of Macedonia and Serbia.

The first written record about the Thracians comes from Homer, who described in the Iliad the arrival of the Thracian King Rhesus (Latin: “Rex”, English: “Royal”): “His chariot is arrayed with silver and gold, and he has brought his marvelous golden amour, of the rarest workmanship - too splendid for any mortal man to carry, and meant only for the gods”.

Herodotus wrote: “The Thracians are the most numerous people after the Indians. They are differently named in each region but the manners and customs of the whole nationality remain just the same everywhere.” Plato mentioned the Thracians in “The Republic” as passionate and spiritual, claiming that their religious processions for Bendis were more beautiful than the Athenian ones.

During your journey in Bulgaria you will visit the ruins of several Thracian sanctuaries and cult sites. The Thracians had their own religion, Thracian Orphism. They believed that the life cycle began and never ended – birth and death were followed unconditionally by the afterlife. The Thracian kings, warrior-priests of the Orphic cult, were consecrated through mystical rituals. During those ceremonies they used magnificent artifacts, now displayed at many museums of Bulgaria. Perceived by us as gold, silver and platinum treasures, those objects are the ritual relics of man’s aspiration for immortality.

The Thracians were in constant contacts with the Sumerians, Egyptians, Greeks, Persians, Phoenicians, and later on with the Romans. In the course of these interchanges they transferred some of their religious beliefs to other peoples in the Mediterranean region. Dionysus, the god of wine and the patron of the theater (Bacchus for the Romans), and the goddess Bendis (Artemis for the Greeks, Diana for the Romans) came from the Thracian Pantheon. Orpheus, “the father of songs”, was a symbolic representation of the Thracian king-priests. Through the legend of Orpheus and Eurydice, he later became a figure of Greek mythology.

The Thracians were also famous in the ancient world for their superb craftsmanship and advanced weaponry. Engaged in constant military conflicts (on the side of the Trojans during the Trojan War, on the side of the Athenians during the Persian Wars), the Thracians mastered the art of war to perfection. Spartacus, the legendary gladiator and slave, turned rebel against the Roman Empire, was born in the Roman province of Thrace.

Thracian priestesses and women-warriors became part of legends and myths surviving until today in folk tales across South Eastern Europe. While visiting Bulgaria, don’t be fouled by the naivety of a village “granny” or a bubbly maiden: they probably still go to collect healing herbs on the night of the summer Equinox. Or they might still dance on the burning coals through the night on May 21st. Those dances, called Anestinaria (Nestinary), are the incarnation of an ancient tradition believed to be part of the Dionysus mysteries.

No matter where you go in Bulgaria, you will always see traces of the Thracian civilization – in archeological museums, architectural monuments and gold treasures. Christians transformed the Thracian God Rider (Thracian Hero) into St. George fighting the dragon. You will see his icons almost in every church in Bulgaria. Dionysus is still very much alive in modern Bulgaria through the appreciation of wine and the people’s Epicurean lifestyle.

Most of the Thracian civilization is still waiting to be discovered by archeologists. In ancient times, the Thracian civilization had served as an intermediary of ideas, technologies and artistic traditions between the East and the West. Moreover, the Thracians contributed further to the continuity between antiquity and modern ages, making their civilization relevant to all of us. Explore this ancient civilization in your delightful trip to Bulgaria!

THIS IS NOT THE FULL BROCHURE

We invite you to call Sarah or Gwen at 1-800-762-4216 to request the full brochure. The brochure will include Important Traveler Information (and answers to most questions) and a Reservation Form. We can send the brochure through the Postal Service or as a PDF attachment. If you would like to receive a PDF, probably the best way to keep the message from going into a SPAM filter is to send a message to sarah@serioustraveler.com. If you are already on our mailing list, no need to complete the entire brochure request form.

June 6 - 16, 2009 • 11 Days
$4920 from JFK via Delta Airlines

Rousse • Varna • Nessebar • Kazanluk
Plovdiv • Sofia • Veliko Turnovo • Arbanassi

Preliminary Day-by-Day Itinerary

This trip may be taken independently with air included from New York or your home city, or as an extension to the Legends and Traditions of Romania tour, June 16 - 28. Click here for more details.

June 6 Depart U.S.A.
Saturday
Meet your travel companions at New York JFK airport for the nonstop flight aboard Delta Airlines to Bucharest, Romania.
(Inflight meals)

June 7 ROUSSE
Sunday
Arrive in Bucharest around 10:00 AM. Welcome to Romania! Join those extending the Romanian tour. Our Bulgarian team (English-speaking tour guide and coach driver) will greet us at the Bucharest airport and escort us through arrival and luggage formalities. From the airport we head south to the Romania-Bulgaria border by air-conditioned coach. We cross the border via the Danube Friendship Bridge, over the moving waters of this majestic and legendary European river. To save time, our guide has prepared a picnic snack to enjoy on the road.

Welcome to Bulgaria. We arrive in Rousse – the most beautiful Bulgarian city on the Danube River. Check in to our hotel: the Anna Palace. Once the mansion of a rich Bulgarian merchant, this building was chosen as the site of consular offices for the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Italy and Romania because of its majestic architecture in eclectic neoclassic style. It has undergone a complete restoration and conversion, begun in 2001. Since 2003 Anna Palace has been one of the best boutique hotels of Rousse. Each one of its 25 rooms is completely different from the other, although all of them share the 19th century Viennese style and elegance combined with modern amenities.

Those willing to sacrifice an afternoon rest following the long flight will have the opportunity to leisurely explore Rousse, often compared with Prague or Vienna. Have a strong Italian espresso or just mingle with Rousse’s people, enjoying a languid afternoon stroll on this pedestrian street bordered with parks, marble piazzas and sparkling fountains.

Flourishing – thanks to its trade with the West – Rousse was the place to be, if you lived in 19th century Bulgaria. The city attracted rich merchants and intellectuals with its art, commerce and banking. The son of such a family, Elias Canetti, was awarded the Nobel prize in literature in 1981.

You are invited to enjoy welcome drinks and a light buffet dinner accompanied by live music at the Canetti house, a short block from the hotel. This building was abandoned during the communist regime, but is undergoing complete restoration. Though work is yet to be finished, the atmosphere is full of charm, and the great architecture is a perfect background for our first event in Bulgaria. We also use this welcome hour to introduce you to the specifics of the tour and to get acquainted with the local traditions, including Bulgarian do’s and don’ts.

Snack-Buffet reception Anna Palace****

June 8 IVANOVO
Monday SVESHTARI
VARNA
In the morning, after breakfast at our hotel, we depart for the village of Ivanovo (a 30 minute drive) to visit the rock-cut monasteries of “St. Michael the Archangel”. Carved high in the rocks above Lom River gorge, this cluster of churches, chapels and monasteries shine with their beautifully painted frescos, dating from the 12th through 17th centuries. In a setting which once included 40 churches inhabited by more than 300 monks in its cave-like monastic cells, we visit the most accessible and best preserved painted church in the Ivanovo Monasteries, now part of the UNESCO Cultural Heritage list of monuments.

Next we’ll relax and enjoy the countryside on our 2-hour ride to another UNESCO Cultural Heritage site – the Thracian Tomb of Sveshtari (3rd century BC).

For lunch, enjoy a picnic prepared by the local people. Continue our journey (around 120 miles) to the pearl of the Bulgarian Black Sea - the city of Varna.

On the way to Varna is Madara – yet another religious center of past cultures. The most impressive monument of this complex is the Madara Rider. Carved high (300 feet from the base of the cliff) into a steep vertical rock, this colossal bas-relief, representing the figure of a knight triumphing over a lion, glorifies the victories of the 7th and 8th century Bulgarian Khans. UNESCO included the Madara Rider in its World Cultural Heritage list in 1972, because of its historical significance and its monumental quality. Today the bas-relief is in an endangered condition, and it is undergoing fortification work. We may be able to see it.

Continuing to Varna, we pass by many archaeological sites that are an inseparable part of the idyllic rural landscape. Our guide, Luba, will explain to us their historical significance.

Arriving in Varna on the Black Sea coast, we dine at a local restaurant.

We apply for an authorization to book the official governmental residence in Euxinograd, formerly the summer palace of the Bulgarian kings. The adjacent residence was used for VIP leaders and their guests during communist times. If in use, we settle for a modern hotel in one of the resorts surrounding the city.

B-L-D Euxinograd Residence
or resort hotel

June 9 VARNA - BALCHIK
Tuesday
Today we visit Varna Museum of Archaeology to admire the oldest hand crafted gold treasure in the world, created in the 5th Millennium B.C. Discovered in 1972 in the Varna Necropolis (royal burial site), this ancient jewelry once decorated a king who reigned roughly 2000 years before the first pharaohs of the Egyptian Old Kingdom and the building of the pyramids. If time permits, we explore the haunting ruins of the Roman Thermae (Public Baths) in downtown Varna.

For lunch, we enjoy freshly caught fish in a select seafood restaurant in Varna.

In the afternoon, after a short drive to Balchik, we visit the summer residence of the Romanian Queen Mary. Aiming to aesthetically blend her Christian beliefs with the Muslim faith of her lover, the Queen’s architects created a masterpiece of gardens, villas, chapels and fountains, unmatched anywhere in this part of Europe. Mixing Roman pools with Turkish minarets, Bulgarian Revival architecture with Greek classical columns, the entire park is a delight in forms of nature and serenity. With the world’s second largest cactus collection, together with hundreds of tree and plant specimens, the Queen’s residence is a paradise on earth for those who enjoy nature. We stroll among majestic pines, Lebanese cedars, and Mediterranean ivies, beyond which is the Black Sea. Tonight’s dinner is in the hunting lodge, a part of the Euxinograd Palace restaurant and open only for VIP guests.

B-L-D Euxinograd Residence
or resort hotel

June 10 NESSEBAR
Wednesday KAZANLUK
Today we travel along the Black Sea coast to the town of Nessebar, another jewel in the crown of ancient Thracian, Classic Greek, and Byzantine civilizations. Originally founded in the 2nd millennium B.C. as the Thracian city known as Menebria, Nessebar preserves the rich heritage of Hellenistic and early Christian monuments. In Medieval times it was the place where the Byzantine Emperors exiled their politically incorrect aristocracy. A few of the 6th to 14th century churches – which showcased the picturesque taste of this rejected nobility – still remain. Nessebar was declared a town-museum and included in the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage list. Nessebar’s artistry – past and present – attracts tourists from all over the world.

Stop for a family-style lunch consisting of fish and other local specialties. The Greek family who owns this restaurant is proud to trace its origins back to the 19th century.

After lunch, we continue to Kazanluk. Located in the geographic center of Bulgaria, the city is the capital of the Valley of the Roses and the Valley of Thracian Kings. We visit the Thracian Tomb of Kazanluk to admire the magnificent frescos from the 4th century B.C. This beautiful monument is also part of the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage list.

After this exciting day, we check in at Hotel Zornitza, located near the Thracian tomb. This simple hotel, built in communist times, offers reasonable comfort and great service.

A private choir concert in an Eastern Orthodox Church awaits us before dinner in a village restaurant 10 minutes drive from Kazanluk.

B-L-D Hotel Zornitza**

June 11 KAZANLUK
Thursday PLOVDIV
We spend the morning in the Kazanluk Valley. The local museum we visit is rich in Thracian gold artifacts. This exquisite collection, recently discovered, shows the mastery of Thracian goldsmith craftsmanship. We also visit the tombs of Seuthes III royal family, where Dr. Kitov – the “Indiana Jones” of Balkan archeology – made the phenomenal discovery.

On our way to Plovdiv, we stop at Shipka Birth of Christ Memorial Temple, built in the impressive 17th century Muscovite style. It is a magnificent example of Russian Orthodox Christian architecture with a decorative façade and golden onion-domes. The structure was dedicated to the Russian Imperial Army, which liberated Bulgaria from the Ottoman Empire in the 19th century.

Although we are too late to see the famous Rose Festival, we are in perfect time to enjoy the beauty and scent of the blooming lavender fields. We visit a lavender distillery and see how the essential oils are produced.

We stop for a lunch in the private house of a Bulgarian artist and enjoy his wife’s home cooking.

In the late afternoon we continue our journey to Plovdiv, the second largest city in Bulgaria, and enjoy the atmosphere of our centrally-located landmark hotel Trimontium.

We end our day quietly dining in a restaurant near the hotel.

B-L-D Hotel Trimontium****

June 12 PLOVDIV
Friday BACHKOVO MONASTERY
In the morning we visit Plovdiv’s Old Town. Situated on three hills, the city was known as Pulpudeva during Thracian times; Philipopolis, honoring the father of Alexander the Great; and Trimontium during the Roman period. It preserves many magnificent examples of Roman, Greek and Bulgarian architecture. Our walking tour includes the Roman Amphitheater, an icon exhibition, and the oldest and richest ethnographic museum in Bulgaria. Provision will be made for those who have difficulty walking. Antique and art galleries set amongst Bulgarian Revival houses with impressive painted façades also beckon us.

Continue 20 miles to the Bachkovo Monastery. The crown jewel of our culinary experience in Bulgaria is lunch at Efrosina House, a private home visited by invitation only to diplomats, nobility and distinguished guests. Today you are honored guests in the 250-year-old mansion, which was built by a wine merchant. The tradition continues as the owner Efrosina delights us with a feast of the finest Bulgarian food and wine. The hostess, author of several cookbooks, will be happy to share her recipes with us.

After lunch we are ready to stroll through Bachkovo Monastery. The buildings of the monastery represent a splendid mosaic of frescos and icons created during centuries of turbulent history. The American writer Elizabeth Kostova describes Bachkovo Monastery as a mysterious place, hiding the secrets of Count Dracula. It’s up to you to decide if the monastery is mystifying…or simply charming with its wonderful art.

Upon our return to Plovdiv, we pause for dinner in a local restaurant. After the lavish lunch at Efrosina’s house, we prefer a light repast.

We may have the opportunity to enjoy a concert in the Old Town of Plovdiv (optional). The cultural agenda of the city is very rich, so there is always a great choice of music.

B-L-D Hotel Trimontium****

June 13 PLOVDIV
Saturday RILA MONASTERY
SOFIA
We depart for Rila Monastery (4-hour drive) traversing a picturesque mountain road. It is almost the same route, Via Egnatia, that the Romans used to transport their armies from the West to conquer the East. During this scenic journey, we view the majestic Rila Mountain, the charming town of Samokov and the Struma River Valley.

After lunch near Rila Monastery, we visit this splendid Eastern Orthodox compound that has survived and flourished for more than eleven centuries. The monastic complex, considered one of the finest masterpieces of Bulgarian National Revival architecture, was declared a national historical monument in 1976 and became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983.

During the two-hour monastery tour, in the museum we observe the famous Rafael Cross. It was carved with a needle over a period of twelve years by a monk who lost his vision after finishing this masterpiece. Following the museum visit, we take pleasure in admiring the monastery church, covered with frescos in the finest example of 19th century ecclesiastical artistry. After a visit to the old kitchen with its enormous chimney, we see a monastic room. Those who are willing to climb steep staircases may ascend the clock tower where you will find the earliest wall paintings of musicians in Medieval Europe.

In the late afternoon, relax as we continue on the two-hour drive to Sofia, the capital of Bulgaria.

We check in to our boutique hotel, Crystal Palace in downtown Sofia, located near the National Library and Sofia University, “Climent Ohridski”. After freshening up a bit, we enjoy a light dinner in a local restaurant nearby.

B-L-D Hotel Crystal Palace****

June 14 SOFIA
Sunday
After breakfast at the hotel, we take a short walk (approximately 10 minutes) to St. Alexander Nevski Cathedral, to attend the Sunday service. A cross-domed basilica, built in Neo-Byzantine style, the cathedral is the largest Eastern Orthodox Church in Bulgaria. Both its exterior and interior architectural designs are impressive. At a height of more than 150 feet, gold-covered domes shimmer over the intricate complex of arches and windows, illuminating an interior lavishly decorated with Italian marbles in all possible colors, Brazilian onyx, alabaster and Venetian mosaics. Inside the cupola is the portrait of Father Savaot and the Prayer of God inscribed with gold letters.

Our leisurely walking tour continues (with the highlights of Sofia all in close proximity), to St. Sofia Church, a basilica built in the 6th century over the mausoleum of the early Christian martyrs (prior to that the necropolis). We see another example of Russian Orthodox architecture, St. Nicolas Church . From the Military Club, follow the yellow brick road, a boulevard covered with yellow cobblestones imported from Italy. It is lined with 19th century buildings in various styles. These magnificent examples of architecture now house embassies, palaces, museums and high-end boutiques. Our walking tour will culminate at the Archeological Museum of Bulgaria, which showcases splendid treasures from Thracian times, and artifacts dating back to 8th millennia B.C.

Lunch today is at a café in downtown Sofia.

In the afternoon, we drive to the outskirts of Sofia to see the collections of the National History Museum and the Boyana Church. The National Museum of History exhibits some of the best archeological and artistic artifacts found on the territory of Bulgaria. Several times its collections have traveled to be included in exhibitions at the Metropolitan Museum in New York, Le Louvre, L’Hermitage and other famous museums around the world.

The seventh wonder of Bulgaria that we visit on our tour is the Boyana Church. Built and painted between 11th and 14th centuries, this site is on the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage list. The frescoes dating from 1259 are considered an artistic precursor of the Italian Renaissance, which started two centuries later.

After admiring the serenity of the 13th century portraits of the Bulgarian aristocrats painted on the walls of the church, we continue our adventures in the outskirts of Sofia and partake of a dinner served in a small monastery. During the buffet-style supper we have the opportunity to spend time with authentic “grannies”, who have prepared selected delights of Bulgarian cuisine.

B-L-D Hotel Crystal Palace****

June 15 SOFIA
Monday VELIKO TURNOVO ARBANASSI
This morning we drive northeast to Veliko Turnovo. Enroute, learn about its history as the capital of the Second Bulgarian Empire (12th -14th centuries). It was graced with rich palaces of the Bulgarian Kings, bishops and nobility.

Upon arrival in Veliko Turnovo, we stop at the remains of Tsarvets. Those who wish, may climb to the top of the Royal Hill. The site from Baldwin of Flanders Tower is impressive. The others may have a coffee break. Then we have lunch and free time at the arts and crafts street Samovodska Charshiya.
Continuing to the architectural museum-town of Arbanassi, we view the 16th century frescos in the Church of the Holy Nativity. Next we see the Arbanassi fortress-houses, built in the 17th and 18th centuries. These fortified homes protected the wealthy Bulgarians from the vicious invasions of roaming bandits, who pillaged the towns and villages in the vicinity.

Our farewell dinner is at our hotel, the Arbanassi Palace – a 5-star hotel, formerly the Bulgarian president’s home. Enjoy a spectacular live show of Bulgarian folklore, music, and dances, privately arranged for us on the terrace of the hotel.

B-L-D Arbanassi Palace*****

June 16 ARBANASSI
Tuesday ROUSSE
BUCHAREST
NEW YORK
Rise early for our departure to Bucharest. Our Delta flight departs Bucharest at 1:55 PM and arrives JFK at 5:30 PM.

Welcome home!
B=breakfast, L=lunch, D=dinner
Note: Flight schedules always subject to change.

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