Preliminary Day By Day Itinerary

June 22 Arrive
Wednesday Bucharest
Welcome to Romania! Check in to our well-located hotel and stroll around in Lipscani area. Dinner is at our hotel. (D)

**** Ramada Majestic Hotel

June 23 Bucharest - Sinaia
Thursday Brasov
We start the morning with a visit to the Parliament House, the megalomaniacal project of the communist dictator Ceausescu. Leaving Bucharest, we head towards Ploiesti; its history and today’s activity are related to refineries and the petroleum industry. But not far from the city, hectares of vineyards fill the hills. The area lies on the 45th degree parallel, the same latitude as the French area of Bordeaux. As we are in the wine country, we enjoy a lunch in a winery and, of course, have a taste of wine.

After lunch, we continue to Sinaia, to visit Peles Castle – a royal palace built as a summer residence for the first king of Romania, Carol I. The castle was constructed between 1875 and 1883 in a German Renaissance style. In the evening, we arrive to Brasov for overnight accommodation in the center. Brasov (Kronstadt) was originally a Saxon fortress and still exudes echoes of Krakow. Take a gentle walk from our hotel in the Council Square to admire the beautiful Black Church, Europe’s most eastern Gothic church and one of the most beautiful in Romania. Dinner is at Sirul Vamii Restaurant, accompanied by live piano music. (B-L-D)

***** Aro-Palace Hotel

June 24 Bran - Viscri
Friday Sighisoara
We drive 30 km southwest of Brasov to visit the famous Bran castle, built in 1377. In 1920 the castle became the summer residence of Queen Marie of Romania, the granddaughter of Queen Victoria of England. The castle is strangely linked to Count Dracula even though it is doubtful that Vlad the Impaler ever spent the night here. Leave Wallachia and continue our drive to Viscri, located in a remote hidden valley in the heart of Transylvania. Here, an English-Romanian foundation called Mihai Eminescu Trust, has restored part of the church and at least 50 facades in the beautifully preserved village. The white fortified church that gives the village its Saxon name, Deutschweisskirch, is UNESCO-designated. Have a look inside accompanied by a local Saxon guide. The town of Viscri was visited twice by HRH Prince Charles of Wales, who also owns a house here. Enjoy a private lunch with a Saxon family in the village. We head to the fascinating medieval town of Sighisoara for an overnight accommodation right in the old center. (B-L)

*** Casa Wagner

June 25 Sighisoara - Biertan
Saturday Richis - Malancrav
Sighisoara is considered to be the most beautiful and complete medieval architectural assemble in Romania and the most beautiful inhabited citadel throughout Europe. The medieval citadel is perched on a hillock and is fortified with a 14th century wall. The rooftop views from the Clock Tower museum are not to be missed! We make an excursion 18 miles west to Biertan, where we find the largest Saxon defensive fortress. With its three surrounding walls, Biertan is considered to be among the most fantastic structure of the Saxon heritage in Transylvania. The fortified church is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Not far from Biertan, hidden in the valley, we find Richis and its beautiful Gothic church, unique in Romania for its stone carvings and the green men. Decrypt the secrets of the church with the Saxon gentleman who opens it for you, Mr. Schass. Then have a private lunch in Richis with a local family in a fine restored Saxon house. We make one more stop in Malancrav to admire the 15th century frescoes of the church, the widest frescoes which remain in a Lutheran church. Outside the church lies the very well restored Apafi Manor. Return to Sighisoara for overnight accommodation. (B-L)

*** Casa Wagner

June 26 Bicaz Gorge
Sunday Gura Humorului
Today is a long and tough, but beautiful drive. We leave Transylvania and the central part of the Romania and head the northward. We cross the impressive Bicaz Gorge where we will stop to have a walk and admire the high limestone rocks and see some crafts, sold by artisans beneath the rocks. We are now in Szekely Land, but soon we pass onto Moldavia.

Stop on the way close to Targu Neamt at a private museum made by a local couple of artisans who rescued old traditional objects from the village. In their late 80’s now, they still carve in wood and make traditional masks. In this part of the world, on New Year’s Eve, many devil masks and spirits are going out. Also many dances are performed. They will present to us a show, which is traditional for the Moldavian New Year (the goat dance & the bear dance).

Continue to Gura Humorului in Bukovina, for overnight accommodation and dinner at our hotel. (B-L-D)

**** Best Western Bucovina

June 27 Sucevita
Monday Moldovita - Vorentz
Bucovina, or the land of the birch tree, is famous for its extraordinary Painted Monasteries (UNESCO World Heritage site) at Moldovita, Sucevita, Arbore, Humor and Vorentz. In all five the interior and the exterior walls have been adorned with traditional Orthodox frescoes painted in Byzantine style, which makes them unique from the other Orthodox churches. We start our visit with Vorentz, the Sistine Chapel of the East, followed by Sucevita, noted as the green one, which was last painted and thus the best preserved. In a village church we have a private religious choir, interpreted by Romanian priests and monks. Lunch is in Sucevita with a local family, who prepare traditional Bucovina food for us. Continue a winding road, we head towards Moldovita, the yellow church, which also holds The Golden Apple prize. Dinner there is with a local family who also give us an egg painting demonstration. We visit a famous artist, who decorates the eggs in a traditional way in Bucovina - with local symbols and natural colors. (B-L-D)

**** Best Western Bucovina

June 28 Maramures
Tuesday Poienile Izei
Barsana - Hoteni
Crossing the Carpathians via Prislop Pass, we head towards Maramures, where we will spend two beautiful and unforgettable days. Maramures is a lovely region in the far north of Romania. It is surrounded by mountains with picturesque meadows and valleys. The most famous are Mara, Iza and Cosau Valleys. The region is famous for its 17th and 18th century spindly wooden churches, the beautiful hand carved wooden gates and the traditions kept alive through the centuries. Visit Poienile Izei church, listed on UNESCO heritage for its spectacular interior frescoes. Here is depicted and well presented the tortures of hell. The people in the village are very proud of Price Charles’ visit in 2006, when he came especially to admire the church. Enjoy a picnic lunch in a wonderful setting overlooking the church and the village. In Barsana we visit a new wooden monastery, just to compare a new monastic settlement with the old ones. Also, in the some village we visit a wooden sculptor, famous for making traditional gates all over Maramures. He is very proud to have been a part of the Smithsonian Festival in Washington, 1999, and he will show you his pictures from U.S. capital and welcome you to his private small museum.

For the two days we stay overnight in Hoteni with village families. Mr. and Mrs. Pop are folk musicians of the area, very well-traveled all over the world with their group who perform theater plays. Enjoy their food, the magnificent views from the garden and their compelling personalities. (B-L-D)

Popica’s Guesthouse

June 29 Desesti - Sapanta
Wednesday Sighetul Maramatiei
Cosau Valley
Visit Desesti church, also UNESCO listed. The interior paintings were restored in 1999, and vivid colors now cover the wooden walls.

This area borders Ukraine, so we will drive along the frontier to Sapanta to pay a visit to the famous Merry Cemetery, so called because all the gravestones have been hand-painted by local artists to depict the lives of those who have passed away. Have lunch in Sighetul Maramatiei, at a traditional restaurant. Sighetul Maramatiei is known as the birthplace of Elie Wiesel, winner of the Nobel Price for Peace in 1986. It is also known for its terrifying communist prison, today a Memorial museum. In the afternoon, we drive along the beautiful Cosau valley with its picturesque villages to Sirbi, a village where almost every household has its own carved wooden gate. Along the riverside there are several water-powered installations, all made of wood: valtori (villages’ simple washing machines) for washing clothes and blankets, and water mills operating all day long. There is an ancient tradition that in the villages along Cosau Valley, men wear a little straw pillbox hat beginning at a remarkably young age. We can visit an artisan who makes these small funny hats. (B-L-D)

Popica’s guesthouse

June 30 Maramures
Thursday Ocna Sugatag
Cluj-Napoca
Before heading south, and since it is a Thursday, we take advantage of the opportunity to visit a large local market in Ocna Sugatag. It is the weekly market for the peasants where they sell and buy animals (pigs, cows, chicken) as well as corn, flour, vegetables - and hats. Crossing the mountains via Rotunda Pass (3543 ft. altitude) we visit today our last wooden UNESCO heritage church in Rogoz. This church survived the last Tartar invasion in 1717 and has today boasts stunning interior paintings and 500 years old icons. The priest will be delighted to give us a full explanation about the wooden symbols of the church as well as the significance of the religious paintings. Partake of a picnic lunch at Rogoz on the 300-year-old church table. Drive to Cluj-Napoca to enjoy an Ursus beer (or soft drink) on one of the terraces in the main square. Romanian Ursus beer is made here in Cluj-Napoca. The name Cluj comes from Castrum Clus, first used in the 12th century as the name of the citadel surrounding the city. Clus means “closed” in Latin and refers to the hills that surround the city. Note the Renaissance style architecture is in perfect harmony with Roman ruins as well as new buildings. Tonight dinner is on your own. Overnight accommodations are in Cluj-Napoca center. (B-L)

*** Victoria Hotel

July 1 Sibiel - Sibiu
Friday
Crossing the Transylvanian Plateau, we head closer to the Middle Carpathians. In the mountain foothills we visit the Glass Icons Museum in Sibiel (the largest one in Europe), and then we enjoy a lunch with a view over the village. There is time to explore Sibiu in the afternoon, the first town in Romania that in 2007 bore the title European Capital of Culture together with its twin town in western Europe, the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg. Sibiu has gathered together nearly 80 hectares of old architecture; it is one of the best-preserved medieval towns in southeastern Europe. Dinner is at a traditional restaurant. (B-L-D)

**** Ramada Sibiu Hotel

July 2 Olt Valley
Saturday Hurez Monastery
Curtea de Arges
Bucharest
We drive south along Olt valley to Bucharest, again passing the Carpathians. We make small detours to visit Hurez monastery and Curtea de Arges. Hurez monastery was built by Prince Brancoveanu in 17th century, while Curtea de Arges is the place where the kings of Romania are buried. Have lunch with the nuns in Hurez monastery. Continue to the capital city. Bucharest’s first documentary attestation dates back to 1459 (only six years after the tragedy of Christianity- the fall of Constantinople), when a princely residence and military citadel were established under the chancellery of Prince Vlad Tepes. The oldest settlement in Bucharest is the Old Princely Court (Curtea Veche), built by Vlad the Impaler as the official residence of the Walachian princes. You can still see its ruins today. Overnight accommodation is in Bucharest at the same hotel as the first night.

Dinner is at a traditional restaurant with live folk music. (B-L-D)

**** Ramada Majestic Hotel

July 3 Bucharest
Sunday
In the morning transfer to the airport. (B)

B=Breakfast, L=Lunch, D=Dinner